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» Home » 2008 January 28

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Traditional Moderate Climbs in the Black Canyon »

January 28th, 2008
Trad Moderates in the Black Canyon: AKA…Welcome to the Black! by Phil Wortmann To start with, the term “moderate” should not be misconstrued as meaning lacking in difficulty, especially in the Black. Advanced traditional climbers would identify a moderate route as a long climb rated around 5.9 or 5.10. That being said, one must remember the words of Jim Newberry: “It’s always desperate in the Black.” A run-out, 5.8 lead on pegmatite with a sketchy #2 stopper will not feel “moderate” to mere mortals. Many routes have cleaned well with traffic, but loose rock can easily be found. It’s a horrific feeling to glance down the back of a flake you were lie-backing to see that it ...
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