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Local Climbing

GRADUATING WITH HONORS: Bouldering in Cheyenne Canyon »

March 21st, 2008
Location: 2 feet South of road (brutal approach!). Difficulty: V-0 to V-Hard. Type of rock: Best granite in the park. Position: Snuggled in next to a cool mountain brook and sheltered by shade trees. Descent: Third-class walk off. These facts, known by locals for decades, make this chunk of granite a popular favorite. It was probably Army climbers who first climbed here seriously. Harvey T. Carter taught soldiers how to climb and correctly place pitons in "the Canyon" during the 1950's. Harvey developed many projects here over the years, and was responsible for mapping many of the classic routes still sought after today. He also brought attention to the boulder by introducing top notch talent. One summer, Yosemite hardmen Yvon Choinard and Royal Robbins passed ...
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Posted by PWortmann post comment image2 Comments

Traditional Moderate Climbs in the Black Canyon »

January 28th, 2008
Trad Moderates in the Black Canyon: AKA…Welcome to the Black! by Phil Wortmann To start with, the term “moderate” should not be misconstrued as meaning lacking in difficulty, especially in the Black. Advanced traditional climbers would identify a moderate route as a long climb rated around 5.9 or 5.10. That being said, one must remember the words of Jim Newberry: “It’s always desperate in the Black.” A run-out, 5.8 lead on pegmatite with a sketchy #2 stopper will not feel “moderate” to mere mortals. Many routes have cleaned well with traffic, but loose rock can easily be found. It’s a horrific feeling to glance down the back of a flake you were lie-backing to see that it ...
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Posted by TFoster post comment image2 Comments

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