CLIMBING LOCAL Colorado Springs - Lost in Space in the South Platte
Pete Lardy, from Pikes Peak Alpine School, stopped by Mountain Chalet and we asked him about some of his favorite routes around here…
“One of my favorite local multi pitch trad climbs is Lost in Space (and its many variations) on Sheep's Nose in the South Platte. Driving to Turkey Rock, everyone can easily see the proud south facing prow of Sheep's Nose.
We enjoy climbing or guiding this route due to its great qualities. We occasionally hold guide trainings on this rock and route for all it has to offer in route finding, gear placement and anchor building, as well as its fabulous views.
This rock offers mostly south facing routes so it’s best in spring and autumn when the temps are a little cooler. The climbing is 5.8 and 5.9, so feeling solid at this grade will help free up bandwidth for route finding and anchors. The route offers cracks for protection while the climbing is mostly face with the occasional slab move.
This route has it all! With 4-5 pitches to the top and no fixed anchors, it has commitment even though you can see your vehicle the whole time. (That might be what keeps the crowds away on this “in plain view” giant.) With many variations, you can climb this route a lot and take a different route to the summit each time.
While on the route you have amazing views of the Pikes Peak massif. Taking a little time on the summit is a must. Light breeze, views of Pikes and rewarding climbing make this a well-earned summit.
The descent can be walked-off but I like the cleaner rappel line. Two raps puts you down into a lower walk-off gully that takes you back to the base of the route or straight back to your vehicle.”
Pro Tip 1: “Ozone Direct is one of these variations that offers a 5.10 quintessential South Platte incipient crack crux. Just try not hesitating at this move :) Up higher on the route the climbing gets easier and might wander a bit with an alpine feel to it. This makes anchors a bit more creative and adds to the fun of the day.”
Pro Tip 2: “If time allows, stop by for a pitch on Ten Years After a (5.8) massive corner on the west face.”
What: Lost in Space, 5.8-5.9 trad route; 4-5 pitches
Where: Sheep’s Nose in the South Platte
When: South facing rock that’s ideal in Spring and Fall
Why: It has it all!
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