North Cheyenne Canyon

North Cheyenne Canyon is a 1,600 acre+ city park that has climbing, hiking, and mountain biking. It is likely one of the earliest climbing areas in the state. There is little doubt that Albert Ellingwood and even others before him ventured up some of the crags in the canyon.

 

It is comprised mostly of Pikes Peak Granite with the rock quality getting better the higher you go up the canyon. There are 140+ trad, sport, and boulder problems in the canyon along with some ice climbing in the winter.

 

A paved road and Cheyenne Creek run the length of the bottom of the canyon. There are many great hiking and mountain biking trails so it can be a very busy place during the summer and on nice weekends.
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Location and Access

North Cheyenne Canyon in the southwest part of Colorado Springs and is accessed via North Cheyenne Canyon Road. Most of the climbing areas are accessed from the road but are not necessarily roadside crags.

 

It is a city park so city climbing regulation apply for all the climbs. It is also a very popular and busy park. Even with all the climbs and history, climbers are certainly the minority user. Be careful on the road. Tourists are usually looking everywhere but where they are going.
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Areas (142 Routes)

  • “On the Rocks” (5) 5.10 - 5.11, Sport
  • 1st Middle Buttress (2) 5.6 - 5.7, Trad
  • The Amphitheater (10) 5.8 - 5.13, Sport
  • Army Slab (9) 5.0 - 5.10, Sport, Trad
  • Buckhorn Boulders (6) V1 - V5
  • Buzzard Boulders (18) V0 - V10
  • Company Wall (9) 5.7 - 5.11, Sport, Trad
  • Creekside Wall (9) 5.3 - 5.12, Trad
  • Crow’s Nest (1) 5.9, Trad
  • Eagle’s Perch (1) 5.13, Sport
  • Fly Cave Wall (2) 5.9 - 5.10 Top Rope
  • Flying Buttress (2) 5.6 - 5.9, Sport
  • Graduation Boulder (12) V1 - V3
  • The Nose (3) 5.9 - 5.10, Trad
  • The Pinnacle (13) 5.5 - 5.12, Sport, Trad
  • Point Sublime (1) V2
  • Seven Bridges (10) V0 - V8
  • Silver Cascade Slab (11) 5.6 - 5.10, Sport, Trad
  • South Buttress and Tinseltown (8) 5.7 - 5.10, Sport, Trad
  • Sun Slabs (4) 5.4 - 5.11, Sport, Trad

Planning Resources

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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